Mount Sutro’s Cultural History
Mount Sutro is a prominent landmark located in the center of San
Francisco. It plays a significant role in both the cultural and
natural history of San Francisco and continues to offer some
mystery and intrigue to those willing to explore its lush forest
and century-old trails.
The story of modern-day Mount Sutro begins in the early 1800s. Its
slopes of rich native coastal scrub and grasses are located at the
northern most tip of the San Miguel Range, an open and sparse set
of hills in the center of San Francisco. These hills, including
Twin Peaks and Mt. Davidson, formed the division between the small
settlement of Yerba Buena and the Outside Lands, as everything to
the west of the hills was referred. Named Blue Mountain at the
time, its steep North Ridge formed the most significant landmark
from the town and most points on the Bay including the mouth of the
Golden Gate.
The first official land owner of the modern day Mount Sutro
property was José de Jesus Noe, the last Alcalde (Mayor) of Yerba
Buena. It was on December 23, 1845 that Governor Pio Pico granted
Noe ownership of Rancho San Miguel.

Adolph Sutro, an immigrant from
Prussia, traveled to the western United States in 1850, anxious to
make a fortune in California’s Gold Rush. After selling his
interest in a Comstock mine tunnel he settled in San Francisco, and
proceeded to purchase real estate throughout the city. At one point
Sutro’s land holdings consisted of 2200 acres, totaling
approximately one-tenth of San Francisco. Most of his holdings were
in the undeveloped land west of Twin Peaks. The largest single
acquisition was the 1,200-acre parcel of Rancho San Miguel.
The Rancho San Miguel property began at present day Parnassus
Avenue and extended south and west all the way to Ocean Avenue.
Except for a few farms the land was very much in its natural state
of sand covered by fragrant native coastal shrublands. Adolph Sutro
began planting his property with eucalyptus, cypress and pine.
Within a couple of decades he transformed the hills into a forested
plantation. Many years after his death the mountain was renamed in
Sutro’s honor.
Mount Sutro Rediscovered
In 1998, at the urging of its campus neighbors, UCSF embarked on a
program to create a management plan for its Mount Sutro Open Space
Reserve. In the year 2000 a series of public meetings were
held

and, with much community input, the
result was an award-winning open space plan to serve as a guide to
the long-term restoration and management of the 61-acres above the
Parnassus Heights Campus.
The Mount Sutro Management Plan balances the following key
principles:
• Ensure public safety and property protection
• Improve the health of the forest
• Protect and expand native plants
• Enhance wildlife habitat values
• Maintain scenic quality
• Improve public access
In 2003 the Rotary Club of San Francisco donated $100,000 allowing
implementation of the first phase of habitat restoration, Rotary
Meadow, a native plant garden located on the former NIKE site at
the summit. Fast forward to 2005 when, during survey work for a
proposed new trail, a very old trail was discovered instead. This
was the beginning of a year of discoveries, as volunteers attempted
to determine the route of what is now called the “Historic Trail”
believed to have been built in the 1880s.
Beginning in September 2006 a talented group of local volunteers
met with UCSF and proposed the formation of a stewardship program
that would address some of the goals of the Open Space Management
Plan. With the approval of the University, the Mount Sutro
Stewards

was formed. The Steward’s approach to
addressing the unmet goals of the management plan would take two
directions. First they would restore and improve the trail network
allowing for easier navigation through the dense wooded area
creating a greater experience for the adventuresome. The second was
to begin habitat restoration allowing some of San Francisco’s
locally rare plant colonies a chance to survive, regenerate, and
potentially thrive.
The program became an instant success! With regular stewardship
days scheduled, large numbers of volunteers began to arrive
monthly. The first major effort was to rehabilitate the Historic
Trail and restore some rare native plant colonies from the thick
stands of invasive ivy and blackberry. Over the first twelve months
volunteers contributed over 5,000 hours of labor to the stewardship
program and the Stewards received a San Francisco Beautiful Award
for the effort in 2007.
Today, the Mount Sutro Open Space Reserve is an ecological oasis in
the heart of San Francisco’s

urban environment. The work continues
to this day with continued recognition and newly forged
partnerships allowing for strong bonds among the Stewards, the
University, and the surrounding communities. Our partners in this
volunteer effort include One Brick, SF Urban Riders, Nature In The
City, Rotary Club of San Francisco and the California Native Plant
Society along with continued generous support from UCSF.
Mount Sutro’s Natural History
The Pacific Ocean is visible less than three miles to the west, but
the 900-foot elevation gain means that Mount Sutro directly catches
the cool coastal winds and fog. While much of the Bay Area
experiences a hot and dry summer, Mount Sutro is more likely to be
cool and damp.
The abundant summer fog contributes to the mountain’s microclimates
and its plant and wildlife communities. The summer experience on
Mount Sutro can be similar to that of a tropical forest, with
Sutro’s eucalyptus harvesting measurable precipitation from the
fog-laden atmosphere during a 24-hour period. On the north-facing
slopes a lush mosaic of deciduous elderberry, ocean spray and
pink-flowering currant still

thrive while hidden among many
non-native plant neighbors. These communities harbor salamanders,
over sixty species of songbirds, owls including the great horned
owl, hawks, coyotes, raccoons, skunks, and possums.
The north-facing slope near the top of the mountain harbors a
special plant assemblage composed primarily of nootka reed grass,
Calamagrostis nutkaensis. This dense prairie community needs the
extra moisture afforded by the combination of northern aspect and
higher elevation. The botanically diverse coastal prairie garden
(Rotary Meadow) at the summit also supports many native
wildflowers, including a late blooming rare species, the San
Francisco gum plant, Grindelia hirsutula ssp. maritima.
Chert is the bedrock that is exposed in the many dramatic rock
outcrops on Mount Sutro and on many of San Francisco’s hills. This
common San Francisco red rock is part of the Franciscan geologic
complex, a mélange of many rock types including sandstone, shale,
basalt, and serpentine. Chert was formed in the South Pacific from
sequential deposition of dead and decaying microorganisms called
radiolaria, whose silica skeletons hardened together to form the
rock. Over millions of years of plate tectonics, the radiolarian
chert migrated up to the Bay Area from its origins at the equator.
110 million years of geological history are reflected by the layers
of deposition of radiolaria, which can be observed under a
microscope. One meter of sequential chert layering equals
approximately one million years. Check out the obvious red rock
chert layers on your climb to the summit!
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